Veliko Târnovo
Distance travelled = 14.75 kilometres walking (19,750 steps).
Back in the days before I embraced digital photography, I used to limit myself to a quota of taking no more than one roll of film per day (36 exposures) when travelling. My self-imposed limit was largely for financial reasons, a restriction that digital photography happily overcame. In that context, it is a measure of how outrageously photogenic Veliko Târnovo is that I took a total of 411 photos today. I wish I could share them all on this travel diary page, but even setting aside how unworkable that would make loading this web page, the hotel’s wi-fi where I am staying does not reach as far as my room, so I have to upload using tethering through my phone.
I could not have hoped for better weather to explore Veliko Târnovo today. Although there were a few patchy clouds, the day was generally clear and sunny with temperatures reaching a relatively balmy 21°C – warmth that I have not experienced since leaving Bucharest two weeks ago.
All my explorations were done by walking, which is a much easier way to get around than driving. After getting some nice panoramic photos in the morning sunlight, I walked west from my hotel along Ulitsa Stefan Stambolov, south-west into Nezavisimost, turning left at the Hotel Etar (where we stayed for one night in 1987), past the now abandoned massive, brutalist Hotel Veliko Turnovo (we also stayed there for a night in 1987) and then across the historic Stambolov Bridge to the Assen Dynasty Monument. My aim was to take in the panorama of the city looking across the river in the morning light, and the fine views certainly didn’t disappoint.
One of the great joys of exploring Veliko Târnovo is simply wandering along the narrow laneways, and that is what I did next, walking the length of what I think is the best of all the ‘old’ streets, Ulitsa General Gurko.
Having reached the eastern end of Ulitsa General Gurko, I continued east to Veliko Târnovo’s most important historic site, Tsaravets Fortress. First established in Roman times and dominating the city’s skyline from its location on top of (actually covering most of) Tsaravets Hill, this huge fortress was the seat of power of Bulgaria’s medieval tsars and includes the remains of more than 400 houses, 18 churches, the royal palace, the execution rock and lots more.
As I approached the ticket office, I saw there was a queue, but I didn’t worry as it seemed quite short. It was short, but it was also very slow moving, and I stood in the line for 50 minutes surrounded by smokers before finally reaching the ticket booth to pay my 10 leva ($7.50 Australian) entry fee.
However, the wait was well worth it, and I spent most of the afternoon exploring the huge site. We had visited Tsaravets in 1987, but it had not been possible to explore the full extent of the site (all young children have notoriously little enthusiasm for walking for several hours over rough rocks through castles, fortresses or ruins). I made up for the brevity of our 1987 visit today and explored just about every square metre of this huge, fascinating huge site.
I felt comfortable that I had fully experienced Tsaravets by late afternoon, so I walked back through the town centre along Ulitsa Stefan Stambolov and Nezavisimost, returning to the Assen Dynasty Monument to catch the afternoon light – which I think was even better than the morning light. I had a great look around, talked to some other visitors, and replicated some 1987 photos that were taken in similar afternoon lighting.
I agree with the conclusions reached in several guide books I have read – Veliko Târnovo is indeed Bulgaria’s prettiest city.
